Datsun Roadster Parts from Rallye Enterprises, Ltd.


Although most of you have put up your top without problems and may think instructions for something seemingly simple are ridiculous, there is a way to do this that will minimize strain on the front bow. Even if your front bow appears "fine", it may have had a lifetime of stress and if it hasn't been structurally reinforced it is prone to failure. By some simple steps you can prolong the arrival of this problem.

Unlubricated rear pivot points increase the stress putting the top up. Lubricate all of the pivot points in the hinges of the rear bars. There are differing opinions on what to lubricate the joints with, light oil, dish soap, silicone spray etc, but you want the rear frame to collapse and open with a light touch.

Also compounding the problem is that many cars are missing the spacer under the center softop latch. This spacer corrects the mounted position of the center latch. Without it, the force of the center latch increases the likelihood of bending the middle of the bow. This part has never been available separately from Nissan. We sometimes have repro's in stock. If need be you can stack flat washers about 1/4 inch thick on each screw as a substitute. (you may need longer screws).

Undo the softop material completely from the sides of the car. You can also leave the connection of the two frame side support posts behind the door off as well. Whether or not this step is necessary depends on the overall stiffness and tightness of your top. There are also adjusters on most of the 68-70 frames to release the tension on the top, shown in the picture below. (Earlier car also used adjustable side supports that held the frame side support bars. A big knob allowed you to raise or lower the top about 3 inches. These original 65-67 1/2 parts can be installed on your 68-70. ) Some people have taken to putting another hole in the each of the top frame side support posts, but this is usually not necessary.

As you sit in the car and bring the frame over your head, as you pull the front bow gently forward, you must insure that the rear collapsible frame set is straightening out over the two windows. Basically as you gently push each side of the front bow forward, left side forward, right side forward, left side forward etc, you push up on the frame with the palm of your hand, shown by the arrows in the picture below. This will help the frame straighten out to allow the front bow to reach as far forward as possible. Just as the front bow reaches its full forward point, it will also pivot and twist down towards the windshield frame so the weatherstrip on it is sitting flat, parallel to the windshield frame, in a relaxed position. No force should be necessary to hold it there.

To snap the top clamps, it should be like closing the latches on an empty suitcase, not a stuffed suitcase! The top clamps are adjustable. The screw holes aren't "holes" they are slots, loosen the screws and push the top latch away from the windshield and that latch will pull harder. If one is too tight, it will usually cause the other ones to be too loose and rattle or fall open. These latches aren't holding a tractor down on a trailer, they are just there to pull the top down wih enough force to slightly crush the weatherstrip so at least most of the rain doesn't come in. They should be adjusted just tight enough so they snap shut with enough force that they don't rattle open. The center latch has a locating peg that slides into a rectangular hole in the center visor mount (also the mirror mount). Don't forget that this latch needs the spacer underneath it described previously.


Front bow is not shown in these pictures, it would be mounted on the right. This picture shows how the rear frame hoop assy looks from inside the car as you are just starting to pull the top up over your head. Do not attempt to attach the front bow unless these bars are almost completely straight, as shown in the picture on the right.

This is how the rear frame assy should look BEFORE you attempt to get the front bow down on to the windshield frame. White arrow indicates where you should push up with your palm as you gently pull the frame forward, alternating by gently pushing the left and right sides of the hoops. (By this I mean push up on frame over drivers window, then over passenger window, drivers window etc, so frame stays even left and right. You may find it easier to push up on the bars by standing outside the car.

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