|
HOW
TO PUT YOUR 68-70 SOFTOP FRAME UP.
Although
most of you have put up your top without problems and may
think instructions for something seemingly simple are
ridiculous, there is a way to do this that will minimize
strain on the front bow. Even if your front bow appears
"fine", it may have had a lifetime of stress and if it
hasn't been structurally reinforced it is prone to failure.
By some simple steps you can prolong the arrival of this
problem.
Unlubricated
rear pivot points increase the stress putting the top up.
Lubricate all of the pivot points in the hinges of the rear
bars. There are differing opinions on what to lubricate the
joints with, light oil, dish soap, silicone spray etc, but
you want the rear frame to collapse and open with a light
touch.
Also
compounding the problem is that many cars are missing the
spacer under the center softop latch. This spacer corrects
the mounted position of the center latch. Without it, the
force of the center latch increases the likelihood of
bending the middle of the bow. This part has never been
available separately from Nissan. We sometimes have repro's
in stock. If need be you can stack flat washers about 1/4
inch thick on each screw as a substitute. (you may need
longer screws).
Undo
the softop material completely from the sides of the car.
You can also leave the connection of the two frame side
support posts behind the door off as well. Whether or not
this step is necessary depends on the overall stiffness and
tightness of your top. There are also adjusters on most of
the 68-70 frames to release the tension on the top, shown in
the picture below. (Earlier car also used adjustable side
supports that held the frame side support bars. A big knob
allowed you to raise or lower the top about 3 inches. These
original 65-67 1/2 parts can be installed on your 68-70. )
Some people have taken to putting another hole in the each
of the top frame side support posts, but this is usually not
necessary.
As
you sit in the car and bring the frame over your head, as
you pull the front bow gently forward, you must insure that
the rear collapsible frame set is straightening out over the
two windows. Basically as you gently push each side of the
front bow forward, left side forward, right side forward,
left side forward etc, you push up on the frame with the
palm of your hand, shown by the arrows in the picture below.
This will help the frame straighten out to allow the front
bow to reach as far forward as possible. Just as the front
bow reaches its full forward point, it will also pivot and
twist down towards the windshield frame so the weatherstrip
on it is sitting flat, parallel to the windshield frame, in
a relaxed position. No force should be necessary to hold it
there.
To
snap the top clamps, it should be like closing the latches
on an empty suitcase, not a stuffed suitcase! The top clamps
are adjustable. The screw holes aren't "holes" they are
slots, loosen the screws and push the top latch away from
the windshield and that latch will pull harder. If one is
too tight, it will usually cause the other ones to be too
loose and rattle or fall open. These latches aren't holding
a tractor down on a trailer, they are just there to pull the
top down wih enough force to slightly crush the weatherstrip
so at least most of the rain doesn't come in. They should be
adjusted just tight enough so they snap shut with enough
force that they don't rattle open. The center latch has a
locating peg that slides into a rectangular hole in the
center visor mount (also the mirror mount). Don't forget
that this latch needs the spacer underneath it described
previously.
|