These switches are extremely fragile and tempermental.

It is very common to have to "readjust" the projecting piece of copper that completes the horn contact. It projects outward and I think you can stare at it and watch it bend out of alignment. This applies to both new and used switches. It is a fact of life; mainly that the unit wasn't designed inside some sort of shroud to protect it.

Used switches may come with a turn signal stalk (handle) that is rusty. You can either clean it up or swap your old one on to it which is screwed into the switch but easier to deal with if you remove the pin that holds the stalk and the pivot for the hi-beam. Do this on a clean workbench as you don't want to lose anything. Do it s l o w l y. You might even be ready to take some pictures of the mechanism as you take it apart or have somebody more skilled at such things do the job. This is just if you are removing the stalk.

The plug-ins that connect this to the harness of the car go together EXTREMELY tightly. Totally unnecessary but that's how they designed it. I would rub a LITTLE bit of silicone or dish soap on the plastic pieces to help them go together. To get the old ones apart it is possible to have to pull so hard the wires are yanked off the terminals; and that creates a messy job to fix. In the car you can OH-SO-CAREFULLY pry them apart with a wide screwdriver; going a little bit on one side and then a little bit on the other side back and forth to get it apart. Keep in mind the old plastic will use ANY excuse to break. There is a 4 inch by 14 inch panel under the dash you can take off to give you some working room and create some slack in the harness. If your panel has never been off you will have to fight the machine that originally installed the screws or whatever Sumo Wrestler installed them as they can be T I G H T. Anything that tight should have been BOLTS not those blasted Phillips screws.

You can put a switch in and it can appear "bad" or the one in your car can appear "bad" when it is one of the tiny wire connections that were corroded. Or maybe the plug is not fully seated; which is a bear to do sometimes. The switch has to be grounded (installed) on the steering column for the hi-beam switch to work. You can carefully spray some WD-40 etc on the moving part of the switch to keep it moving and lubed. Doesn't take much. Wrap a towel around the area if the switch is mounted on the car so you don't get that stuff on the dash or gauge faces.

I have encountered all of this testing the switches; finding the switch is bad then good then bad then good; when it is other factors at play. It's kind of a monkey puzzle as the 69s and 70s have the headlight switch; the turn switch and the flasher switch all tied together. Throw in a problem with the headlight relay and contacts on the headlights and it can make for some fun diagnostic time.

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