Datsun Roadster Wiring Harness Info

Datsun Roadster Electrical Information from Rallye Enterprises, Ltd.

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Datsun Roadster Harness Info

Note 1: These are harnesses built by Nissan for the car. They are designed to work with all of the other parts that came on your car originally. By "originally" I am referring to what your car came with from the factory; not what a previous owner says "has always been on this car". Successful life of these harnesses depends on all of the other original parts being present; attached properly and in good working order (like grounds). Originally the cars did not come wth a fuse in the main "hot" circuit other than at the fuse box. If the ammeter fails; depending on how its internal parts come apart they can refuse together and the wiring harness will just smoke until you get one of the battery terminals off. Although adding an inline fuse or fusible link is not an end all solution; it can help.Even better would be resettable circuit breakers. Adding an alternator over the original 25-35 amp variety can present serious problems if it is allowed to send more than the original current through the system. A defect in the alternator does not an excess of current which damages the ammeter; although a failed regulator can cause the alternator to do so. Keep in mind that if the line to the ammeter is fused; if something happens to the fuse (age, corrosion etc) and it fails; typically the diodes in the alternator will blow. Still cheaper than a wiring harness repair. I've never sat down with each of the harness designs and figured out where best to add protection. Past thinking used to be that the alternator was causing the problem with the ammeter since the alternators almost always were found to have a problem when the ammeter repair was done; but if NOTHING is wrong and you disconnect the hot wire on the alternator with a running engine; especially if the alternator is in full charge mode; the alternator will toss its cookies (diodes).
Note 2: Dash harness sticks out into hood area a foot or so, hood harness sticks into dash area a foot or so. Look close at where your problem is if you're buying just one of them. Console harness is a short harness that runs from dash harness to radio console and to center console between seats. Chassis harness runs back from dash harness to the taillights. Starter harness is foot long harness that connects dash harness to starter motor. On the very early 1600's there was a separate harness that ran from the alternator to the regulator. There are also short harnesses for the reverse lights; for the fuel tank sender and the early cars had a big ground strap that ran from a starter motor bolt to the frame because the negative battery cable was attached to the frame and not the engine.

Harness availabilty has been shrinking lately. We will continue searching for and purchasing these harnesses for inventory. In some cases we are able to extend availability by updating an earlier harness or backdating a later harness so the particular wire configuration or plug-in matches your harness. Some harnesses are only available in sets with other harnesses, we will advise at time of order if this situation exists.

These are all "new" harnesses in that they have not been installed on a car. Some were made last year, some before that, some even in the initial production run. Even resting comfortably on a shelf it is not unusal to see one of the many wrapping tape ends starting to unravel. Sometimes we catch this and add a little bit to the ends, sometimes not. It's also possible to sometimes find a stress crack in one of the plugs, or even a small piece out of the back end of one. I think there might have been some sort of machine that put the wires in the plugs. It won't be anything that effects the functioning of the plug-in. I consider us very lucky to still have some stock of these Nissan harnesses

1969 INFO "TYPE 1" and 'TYPE 2"
There are two types of 69 dash and underhood harnesses, which differ by the amount of connectors in the plug in for the short (12" or so) starter harness which runs from the starter motor and meets the dash harness under the master cylinder. (Three or Four) If the dash,hood,and starter harnesses are changed together, you can use either type. The change to the 4-prong plug was made at approximately SRL311-10400 and SPL311-25500, but check to be sure.

TYPE 1 has the 3-prong
TYPE 2 has the 4-prong

USING A 67.5-70 1600 HARNESS ON A 67.5-70 2000 and vice versa
On the 67.5-70 dash and hood harnesses; the main difference between the 1600 and 2000 versions is that the 2000 temp sender comes off the dash harness over by the fuse box and runs out to the right (distributor) side of the engine. On 1600s; this wire goes out from the dash through the engine harness and comes out on the left (carb) side of the engine. You can take one harness and run the temp wire around the front of the engine (taped into harness) and use make a 1600 or 2000 harness even though you didn't start with one.

The 70 1600 also has a smog system valve on the intake manifold that has to be dealt with as well; if your system is still intact. The 70 1600 will also have wires going to the clutch pedal to operate this valve.

68 HARNESSES VS 69-70. To use a 68 on a 69-70 or vice versa you always need to change hood, dash and chassis harnesses; and also use the appropriate turn signal switch, fuse box, headlight switch, flasher switch, headlight relay and maybe something else I can't remember at the moment. The 69-70 chassis harness is also set up differently; so all four rear lights act together; i.e. BOTH rear lights on a particular side are turn signals; BOTH on the same side are also brake lights. Earlier cars just used one on each side for each purpose. The plug-in for the chassis harness and backup lights varys as well.

Wiring Diagrams are sometimes available. Mail your car's VIN and $2 or ask for one when you order and we'll drop one in if available N/C (the shop manual only shows 2 of the 10 or so different ones) Please email for availability

Just Need a Plug? Many times we can cut one off an old harness for you. Sometimes used harnesses or sections of used harnesses are listed on the USED HARNESS page to assist in a repair.

Back to USED Elec Harness

Back to NEW Elec Harness

SPL310 SPL311 SRL311 WIRING HARNESS INFO

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	Datsun Roadster Harness Info
	Note 1: These are harnesses built by Nissan for the car. They are designed to work with all of the other parts that came on your car originally. By "originally" I am referring to what your car came with from the factory; not what a previous owner says "has always been on this car". Successful life of these harnesses depends on all of the other original parts being present; attached properly and in good working order (like grounds). Originally the cars did not come wth a fuse in the main "hot" circuit other than at the fuse box. If the ammeter fails; depending on how its internal parts come apart they can refuse together and the wiring harness will just smoke until you get one of the battery terminals off. Although adding an inline fuse or fusible link is not an end all solution; it can help.Even better would be resettable circuit breakers. Adding an alternator over the original 25-35 amp variety can present serious problems if it is allowed to send more than the original current through the system. A defect in the alternator does not an excess of current which damages the ammeter; although a failed regulator can cause the alternator to do so. Keep in mind that if the line to the ammeter is fused; if something happens to the fuse (age, corrosion etc) and it fails; typically the diodes in the alternator will blow. Still cheaper than a wiring harness repair. I've never sat down with each of the harness designs and figured out where best to add protection. Past thinking used to be that the alternator was causing the problem with the ammeter since the alternators almost always were found to have a problem when the ammeter repair was done; but if NOTHING is wrong and you disconnect the hot wire on the alternator with a running engine; especially if the alternator is in full charge mode; the alternator will toss its cookies (diodes). Note 2: Dash harness sticks out into hood area a foot or so, hood harness sticks into dash area a foot or so. Look close at where your problem is if you're buying just one of them. Console harness is a short harness that runs from dash harness to radio console and to center console between seats. Chassis harness runs back from dash harness to the taillights. Starter harness is foot long harness that connects dash harness to starter motor. On the very early 1600's there was a separate harness that ran from the alternator to the regulator. There are also short harnesses for the reverse lights; for the fuel tank sender and the early cars had a big ground strap that ran from a starter motor bolt to the frame because the negative battery cable was attached to the frame and not the engine. Harness availabilty has been shrinking lately. We will continue searching for and purchasing these harnesses for inventory. In some cases we are able to extend availability by updating an earlier harness or backdating a later harness so the particular wire configuration or plug-in matches your harness. Some harnesses are only available in sets with other harnesses, we will advise at time of order if this situation exists. These are all "new" harnesses in that they have not been installed on a car. Some were made last year, some before that, some even in the initial production run. Even resting comfortably on a shelf it is not unusal to see one of the many wrapping tape ends starting to unravel. Sometimes we catch this and add a little bit to the ends, sometimes not. It's also possible to sometimes find a stress crack in one of the plugs, or even a small piece out of the back end of one. I think there might have been some sort of machine that put the wires in the plugs. It won't be anything that effects the functioning of the plug-in. I consider us very lucky to still have some stock of these Nissan harnesses 1969 INFO "TYPE 1" and 'TYPE 2" There are two types of 69 dash and underhood harnesses, which differ by the amount of connectors in the plug in for the short (12" or so) starter harness which runs from the starter motor and meets the dash harness under the master cylinder. (Three or Four) If the dash,hood,and starter harnesses are changed together, you can use either type. The change to the 4-prong plug was made at approximately SRL311-10400 and SPL311-25500, but check to be sure. TYPE 1 has the 3-prong TYPE 2 has the 4-prong USING A 67.5-70 1600 HARNESS ON A 67.5-70 2000 and vice versa On the 67.5-70 dash and hood harnesses; the main difference between the 1600 and 2000 versions is that the 2000 temp sender comes off the dash harness over by the fuse box and runs out to the right (distributor) side of the engine. On 1600s; this wire goes out from the dash through the engine harness and comes out on the left (carb) side of the engine. You can take one harness and run the temp wire around the front of the engine (taped into harness) and use make a 1600 or 2000 harness even though you didn't start with one. The 70 1600 also has a smog system valve on the intake manifold that has to be dealt with as well; if your system is still intact. The 70 1600 will also have wires going to the clutch pedal to operate this valve. 68 HARNESSES VS 69-70. To use a 68 on a 69-70 or vice versa you always need to change hood, dash and chassis harnesses; and also use the appropriate turn signal switch, fuse box, headlight switch, flasher switch, headlight relay and maybe something else I can't remember at the moment. The 69-70 chassis harness is also set up differently; so all four rear lights act together; i.e. BOTH rear lights on a particular side are turn signals; BOTH on the same side are also brake lights. Earlier cars just used one on each side for each purpose. The plug-in for the chassis harness and backup lights varys as well. Wiring Diagrams are sometimes available. Mail your car's VIN and $2 or ask for one when you order and we'll drop one in if available N/C (the shop manual only shows 2 of the 10 or so different ones) Please email for availability Just Need a Plug? Many times we can cut one off an old harness for you. Sometimes used harnesses or sections of used harnesses are listed on the USED HARNESS page to assist in a repair.