Some
of the original fuel pumps from the 60s had a much
thinner mounting flange. (about half the thickness of
the pictured pump) They were prone to cracking around
the mounting holes. If your car still has the thin
flange type pump, you may need to replace the studs in
the block with some longer ones. The 1500 engines and
the 1600 engines below R40000 have SAE threads, in
this case 5/16 coarse. Later 1600 engines use 8mm x
1.25 thread studs. You can also use bolts, although
studs are a better way to go.
The
63-67.5 and some of the early 68 pumps were designed
to take a metal output line fitting; and the input and
output direction was the reverse of the later pumps.
Later cars used rubber fuel line on both the input and
output fittings. They made the switch at 1600 engine
number R-59199 and 2000 engine number U20-02692.
Approximate VINs at change were SPL311-17400 and
SRL311-02220. After 40-45 years though, either one
could be on your car... You can use either type line
but the fuel direction through pump must
match.
Pump
includes 2 gaskets, order a new spacer block if your
old one has any problems. ALL pumps need to have the
spacer installed. Sometimes the old spacer can be
hidden in grime and look to be just an extension of
the mounting area on the engine so I would suggest
cleaning up the area so you know you are just
installing one spacer.
NOTE:
You will need to swap your old fitting on to the new
pump. If
you are in a situation where you have no fitting; let
us know by email and we'll try to find a solution for
the situation.
