More
information than you'll ever need to know...
A
"header" is an aftermarket replacement for the original
exhaust manifold. Why do people use headers? Usually it
is due to the original manifold having been designed with
performance as a low priority. On many engines a header
can improve engine breathing considerably. With the
Datsun roadsters this is not the case as Nissan went to
GREAT lengths to make the original manifold
efficient.
Then
why use a header on roadster? Price. If they were near
each other in price there wouldn't be a decision, but
they aren't. The manifolds are currently about 5 times
the cost of a header when WE CAN FIND THEM!
Although
the manifolds can be a bear to actually get out of the
engine compartment, once you get them near the engine
they fit like the cast and stamped part they are, great.
Headers, being a hand welded up product, do not have the
luxury of being as exact as a manifold. They do fit, but
it's not out of the question to have to put a little dent
here or grind this off there. Many times you don't have
to, but no header built out of the
required-for-performance size tubing fits all cars alike.
Look at how the factory dented up the original manifolds
and you'll see how tight clearances are.
On
the other hand, once you get a header away from the head,
it comes right out. Getting an original manifold out of
the engine compartment sometimes requires raising the
engine off of the left mount, or cutting the manifold in
half (if you are removing a bad part.)
Access
to the mounting studs can also be more difficult with a
header. You thought that was impossible right? Thankfully
someone invented flex sockets, 1/4 inch drive socket
sets, offset wrenches etc! Actually it's the danged
intake manifolds that create the problem.
As
headers go (and we've seen a lot of different roadster
ones over the years) these are designed extremely well to
as an exacting a fit tolerance as possible. Compared to
headers of the past, these are superb. A noted roadster
enthusiast worked with the original manufacturers of this
header on a number of occasions to make the current
design as good as possible. Thanks Stan.
We
offer these two ways, bare or coated.
With
the bare ones you can use any hi-temp color paint you
want. Most people just use "stove black" but there is no
reason you have to be THAT boring if you don't want to!
The most popular colors seem to be silver (so it looks
like the original manifold), white, red or orange.
Or
get one with a high temp coating (not paint) that keeps
the heat in to keep the underhood temps down. The header
manufacturer has these plated by a professional plating
company that installs high tech high temp coatings.
Manufacturing and plating the headers in bulk has made
the price much more affordable.
To
install the header you will also need to have the
original flange removed from your front exhaust pipe and
the adaptor for the header intalled (usually welded) on
to the pipe.
If
you have a 1500 or 1600 starter on your 2000 you may find
that the header either won't clear the starter, or
actually touches the starter when installed. (Starters
don't like heat) The 2000 starters are about 7 1/4" long
from the tip of the most forward part of the housing
(when mounted) to the mounting surface that touches the
engine plate. If yours is much longer you will need to
replace the starter with the correct one. Typically the
problem occurs with starters that are 7 3/4" and longer
but it varies by the header design. We usually keep lots
of these in stock. All of our starters will fit with the
headers. Speaking of starters, you may find that the
header will prevent you from removing your starter
without first removing the header. Sometimes the new
conventional (snout) style starters are as short as 6"
We
want you to be happy and aware of what's what. We've been
taking this extra step for 32 years and it's worked.
Nobody likes to find out later what they should have been
told up front. Header design has been altered and tweaked
a few times to ensure as trouble free an installation as
possible.
Making
It All Live Longer...
Manifolds
had a brace that ran from the front of the manifold to
the engine mount bracket. This brace serves two purposes.
One is to lessen stress on the manifold that is generated
by the engine jumping around with the exhaust system
firmly mounted. With the brace in place, the forces that
are trying to bend the manifold are reduced greatly
because the leverage is reduced. The brace also helps the
manifold gasket to live longer as the constant motion of
the engine in relationship to the exhaust system tends to
eventually crush the manifold gasket. Unless the manifold
or header is snugged down the gasket will eventually
fail. The 2000 usually lets you know this by the presence
of coolant staining on the side of the engine block below
and behind the carbs.
Keeping
your engine properly tuned up will also increase gasket
and exhaust life. An engine that jumps around at idle is
very stressful on the exhaust system in general, the
manifold, the gasket, and even the engine
mounts.
The
headers have no provision for such a brace but the above
described stresses can also be lessened by installing a
section of "flex" tubing just to the rear of your front
pipe's mounting flange. This is not the lightweight low
quality flex tubing popular in the 60's for
"modificiations" it is a webbed tubing that is used as
original equipment many cars. Almost any exhaust shop can
fabricate this for you.
