Datsun Roadster Parts from Rallye Enterprises, Ltd.

EXHAUST HEADERS, 1500 & 1600

140-03 HEADER, BARE	140-47 HEADER, COATED

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More information than you'll ever need to know... A "header" is an aftermarket replacement for the original exhaust manifold. Why do people use headers? Usually it is due to the original manifold having been designed with performance as a low priority. On many engines a header can improve engine breathing considerably. With the Datsun roadsters this is not the case as Nissan went to GREAT lengths to make the original manifold a quality item. Then why use a header on roadster? Price. If they were near each other in price there wouldn't be a decision, but they aren't. The manifolds are currently about 5 times the cost of a header when WE CAN FIND THEM! Although the manifolds can be a bear to actually get out of the engine compartment, once you get them near the engine they fit like the cast and stamped part they are, great. Headers, being a hand welded up product, do not have the luxury of being as exact as a manifold. They do fit, but it's not out of the question to have to put a little dent here or grind this off there. Many times you don't have to, but no header built out of the required-for-performance size tubing fits all cars alike. Look at how the factory dented up the original manifolds and you'll see how tight clearances are. On the other hand, once you get a header away from the head, it comes right out. Getting an original manifold out of the engine compartment sometimes requires raising the engine off of the left mount. Access to the mounting studs can also be more difficult. You thought that was impossible right? Thankfully someone invented flex sockets, 1/4 inch drive socket sets, offset wrenches etc! Actually it's the danged intake manifolds that create the problem. As headers go (and we've seen a lot of different roadster ones over the years) these are designed extremely well. Compared to headers of the past, these are superb. A noted roadster enthusiast worked with the original manufacturer of these headers over the years to make them as good as possible. Thanks Stan. We offer these two ways, bare or coated. With the bare ones you can use any hi-temp color paint you want. Many people just use "stove black" but there is no reason you have to be THAT boring if you don't want to! The most popular colors seem to be silver (so it looks like the original manifold), white, red or orange. Or get one with a high temp coating (not paint) that keeps the heat in to keep the underhood temps down. The header manufacturer has these plated by a professional plating company that installs high tech high temp coatings. Manufacturing and plating the headers in bulk has made the price much more affordable. To install the header you will also need to have the original flange removed from your front exhaust pipe and the adaptor for the header intalled (usually welded) on to the pipe. If you have a 1500 or 1600 starter on your 2000 you may find that the header either won't clear the starter, or actually touches the starter when installed. (Starters don't like heat) The 2000 starters are about 7" long from the tip of the most forward part of the housing (when mounted) to the mounting surface that touches the engine plate. If yours is much longer you will need to replace the starter with the correct one. Typically the problem occurs with starters that are 7 3/4" and longer but it varies by the header design. We usually keep lots of these in stock. All of our starters will fit with the headers. Speaking of starters, you may find that the header will prevent you from removing your starter without first removing the header. We want you to be happy and aware of what's what. We've been taking this extra step for 30 years and it's worked. Nobody likes to find out later what they should have been told up front. These headers have been altered and tweaked a couple of times to ensure as trouble free an installation as possible. Making It All Live Longer...Manifolds had a brace that ran from the front of the manifold to the engine mount bracket. This brace serves two purposes. One is to lessen stress on the manifold that is generated by the engine jumping around with the exhaust system firmly mounted. With the brace in place, the forces that are trying to bend the manifold are reduced greatly because the leverage is reduced. The brace also helps the manifold gasket to live longer as the constant motion of the engine in relationship to the exhaust system tends to eventually crush the manifold gasket. Unless the manifold or header is snugged down the gasket will eventually fail. The 2000 usually lets you know this by the presence of coolant staining on the side of the engine block below and behind the carbs. Keeping your engine properly tuned up will also increase gasket and exhaust life. An engine that jumps around at idle is very stressful on the exhaust system in general, the manifold, the gasket, and even the engine mounts. The headers have no provision for such a brace but the above described stresses can also be lessened by installing a section of "flex" tubing just to the rear of your front pipe's mounting flange. This is not the lightweight low quality flex tubing popular in the 60's for "modificiations" it is a webbed tubing that is used as original equipment many cars. Almost any exhaust shop can fabricate this for you.

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