#130-02
"B" cam
These
are new (NOS) original Nissan camshafts, not
reproductions. This cam was original equipment on the U20
engine that came equipped with the Mikuni-Solex carbs.
Lift is .456, duration is 280 degrees. The SU cam was
.44" and 256 duration. This is considered a "mild" cam,
it works great with the SU carbs as well. Idle is still
good, just a little bit "lumpier." Will tend to "wake up"
the car past 3500 rpm. Unless you have both cams side by
side it can be difficult for the untrained eye to tell
the "SU" from the "SOLEX" cam. You can though take a
small mirror and put it behind the rear end of the cam
with it mounted in the car.
The
"SU" cam will be stamped with an "A", the "Solex" cam
will be stamped with a "B".
NOTE:
If you have broken a cam, it is typically due to the
towers being out of alignment; the camshaft is not
usually at fault. This could be caused by past head
warpage not being repaired properly; or from removing the
towers and slapping them back on. Things are not always
as easy as they would appear!
Rockers
should be changed when cam is changed.
Cam
should be checked for binding in towers (misaligned
towers, warped head). With rockers out, chain off,
journals oiled, caps tightened, shaft should spin with
finger and thumb. This ability to turn freely should not
change when head is torqued down. If you are ordering a
camshaft because your old one broke in the middle, it
wasn't because the cam was "bad" and it isn't the end of
your trail. It broke because it has been run in a head
that has been bending it back and forth every time it
rotates. Your head needs work, or a new cam will also
break. Camshafts carry no warranty whatsoever against
breaking as they don't break on their own. Check it out
with your machinist or head specialist.
Ensure
that both ends of camshaft have plugs installed, but not
installed so deep that end journals' oilways are blocked.
To check with cam in car, use long hairpin or nail, you
shouldn't be able to shove something farther inward than
the center of the outermost bearing journals.
You
can check oil flow by removing rockers, distributor and
distributor drive shaft. Insert long screwdriver in oil
pump slot and spin screwdriver counterclockwise with
palms of hands. You should be able to pump oil out all 8
cam oil holes. (a reversible drill makes it a bit easier
to spin oil pump) No oil should come out either end of
camshaft. This should be done before your new cam and
rockers see life; just before engine is
started.
Appropriate
cam lube should be applied and break-in procedures
followed. There is so much disagreement (or at least
"alternate opinions") do some research; talk to engine
builders that do a lot of overhead cam engines. There is
a ton of stuff on the internet but what is the current
"truth"? I don't know... Make sure you look for overhead
cam info has break-in procedures for an internal flat
tappet cams like the 1600 are completely
different.
CORE
CHARGE INFO
Core
charges are a charge added to the parts cost which is
refundable when we receive your old part within 30
days. This is most commonly seen on rebuilt starters
and alternators, but can apply to any part new, used
or rebuilt. A core charge if applicable will be listed
below the part's price.
If
your rebuildable old part is sent in with the order,
there is no core charge. Core charges are refundable
if we receive an assembled, complete and rebuildable
part back within 30 days of the date we shipped
the replacement part to you.
0-30
days the core has it's *full
value if it meets the other requirements outlined
below.
30-60
days the core has 50% of its value if it meets the
other requirements outlined below.
60-90
days the core has 25% of its value if it meets the
other requirements outlined below.
*
If originally paid for with a charge card; "full"
value means 96.5% of amount paid; since that is all we
receive from your credit card.
At
ninety days from the ship date of your order the item
has no core value. If you want the item returned you
can send a check for the original shipping amount and
we can return it.
Cores
have to be returned to us prepaid. They don't have to
be clean but they can't be dripping oil or antifreeze
either.
A
copy of the invoice needs to be included with the
shipment.
Refunds
will be in the same manner as you paid us; so we will
need the credit card information again less the 3
digit security code.
The
invoice number or core slip number (if we provided)
must be in plain view on the outside of the box;
otherwise it will sit outside in the will call box
until you know what freezes over or until you contact
us wondering about it.
Cores
have to be in rebuildable condition. (Our
determination) Please inquire if you are unsure
whether your old part is acceptable as a core.
Yes
we didn't used to have this policy but after finally
realizing that we were kind of being used as a dumping
ground and let our core pile shrink we have added
these restrictions. Either that or no more rebuilt
parts in the future.
Following
are some examples of non returnable cores. This is
not intended to be a complete list of parts or parts
conditions that can affect value of core.
Basically
anything other than normal wear.
Camshafts
with keyways damaged, some non-original cam grind
profiles, stripped threads, broken gear teeth, spun
journals. There is a $21 charge for each excessively
damaged lobe. U20 cams with any base circle smaller
than 1.280" are ineligible as a core except cams with
at least one base circle 1.260-1.279 eligible for half
credit. An "SU" U20 cam ("A") is not an acceptable
core for a "Solex" cam ("B").
Cam
Followers (2000 Rocker Arms)
that
are the old 1 piece type are not an acceptable core
(look at the pad from the side and you can see if it
is two pieces; rockers that have been repaired before
are not acceptable as cores.
Thanks
